The general election in Ghana 5

A stall holder on the main street in Zebilla shows her support for the main opposition, the NPP.

The general election in Ghana 4

Waiting- at an election rally in Zebilla. Crowds slowly built up during the day, entertained by none stop music.
At about 10pm, the incumbent president, John Mahama (NDC) arrived and addressed the people of Zebilla.

The general election in Ghana 3

Electricity has become a grass roots election issue: power cuts are frequent, as we are now in the dry season, and the country relies on hydro-electric power.

The general election in Ghana 2

Street poster for the main opposition party- the NPP

The general election in Ghana

Ghana enjoys its reputation as the success story of Africa, and a part of that success depends on the continuation of a peaceful election process.

Parliamentary elections will be held in Ghana on 7 December 2012. All 230 Parliamentary seats are contested.  Presidential elections will also be held on 7 December 2012, with a run-off on 28 December, if necessary. Ghanaian elections have been peaceful since 1992 when Flight Lieutenant Jerry Rawlings, elected President, but formerly leader of several successful military coups, established the Fourth Republic and a new constitution, and the expectations are that 2012 will continue this established practice. There was a peaceful transfer of power in July of this year following the untimely death of  President John Atta Mills while in office which prompted a period of national mourning.  A further death, of a former Vice President two weeks ago triggered further united outpourings of grief and respect for a politician.

Opinion polls saying the result is too close to call at present- predicting the two main parties (the incumbent NDC and opposition NPP) will each draw about 1/3^rd of all votes with the other parties picking up the remainder. The New Patriotic Party (NPP) is a liberal democratic and liberal conservative party, and the National Democratic Congress (NDC), a social democratic party.

Following the discovery of oil in 2007, the late President Mills presided over Ghana's first oil production in late 2010. He transformed Ghana into one of the fastest growing economies in the world in 2011, growing by a record-breaking 13.4 per cent last year, and with inflation falling from to 8.5%, the lowest seen in Ghana for 42 years.

During his term of office, President Mills though widely accused by his opponent for corruption, inefficiency causing economic retardation, adopted tight fiscal and monetary policies to reverse the large twin deficits his government inherited.  

Following the discovery of oil off the coast of Ghana in 2008, the policies of the next president will determine whether the country's petro-dollars will be used for the common good or disappear as in other oil-rich countries.

Though the campaign is intensifying, the political parties, some NGOs and the religious leaders are all calling for peace and calm during and after the elections.

Main campaigning issues are: the economy, primary and secondary education, health care, sanitation, roads and homes.

Locally, election rallies involve loud music, and the townspeople gathering on the large centrally located soccer pitch, where they will wait for hours before a candidate appears to address the crowd. Meantime, T shirts, bracelets, flags and similar items bearing party colours and logos are distributed and worn, while the younger men drive up and down the main high street on motorbikes or crammed into the back of electioneering jeeps and trucks.

Election poster for the NDC- urging double vote for local parliamentary and presidential candidates.
Politicians worry about voters splitting their support- the so-called "skirt and blouse" option.

Malaria

female anopheles mosquito- the carrier

 

Malaria- (technical information courtesy of the internet and Ted Lankester’s “The Traveller’s Good Health Guide.”)

Somewhere around the 10^th to 14^th October I was bitten by a mosquito: a female Anopheles mosquito.

This would not have been different from any of the many mosquito bites grudgingly tolerated, except this mosquito was carrying a single celled parasite Plasmodium falciparum, which causes malaria.

So, as the mosquito took some of my blood, she deposited into my blood stream a form of the parasite called a sporozoite which made its way into my liver. Without any noticeable symptoms, the sporozoite form of the parasite grew in my liver, becoming liver schizonts. This took about 2 weeks.

 On or around the 27-28^th October, these burst, releasing merezoites into my blood stream, while I felt an initial feverish symptom. The merezoites entered my red blood cells- the ones which carry oxygen- developing into trophozoites (which can be seen under a microscope), and then developed further into blood schizonts. Here a cycle was repeated- as blood schizonts burst from red blood cells, releasing more merezoites, while I experienced repeated bouts of increasingly feverish symptoms. Red blood cells are destroyed each time this process repeats- hence the tiredness associated with malaria.

On Sunday 28^th  October, after feeling a little under the weather for a few days, I rapidly began to feel ill- sweating, shivering, headache, total loss of energy, thankfully no sickness etc. Having witnessed and supported a fellow volunteer several days previously, who, in the space of five hours, went from general illness and sickness, through to hospital admission and intravenous malaria treatment plus saline rehydration, I knew I needed immediate medical attention.

As VSO volunteers working with government services or NGOs, we are privileged in having access to a vehicle and driver in case of emergency. It is recognised that for non- Africans, without acquired local immunity, suspected malaria has to be treated promptly. Within minutes of phoning, a car appeared and with my accompanying housemates, bumped and bounced us over the Zebilla tracks and roads to the nearest clinic. Here, facilities may be basic, the queues long, but the actual processing for testing and dispensing necessary treatment for malaria was streamlined and efficient. Happily I was prescribed necessary drugs and able to stay at home in my own bed while I recovered.

5 days later, with a second blood test showing negative for malaria, but in need of some iron supplements, I was feeling much better, and only tired in a post ‘flu sort of way.

Photo credit- Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation. A boy watches his family set up a mosquito net.

Malaria is present in over 100 countries. It causes an estimated 1 million deaths a year, 85% of these being children under 5 years old.  3,000 children per day die from malaria related illnesses in sub-Saharan Africa.  While the proper use of mosquito nets impregnated with insecticide has measurable effects in reducing cases of malaria, longer term studies show mosquitoes developing resistance to insecticides while the malaria parasite becomes more resistant to the drugs used for treatment. Therefore the aim to develop a vaccine remains the only viable solution. That is one of the goals of the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation, which as of 2012, has donated US$1.3 billion to fight HIV/AIDS, TB and malaria.

Source- Ghana News Agency

 In 2004, the Ghana government introduced the National Health Insurance Scheme (NHIS), encouraging every adult and child to register and carry an NHIS identification card, for a payment of 3 Cedis (about £1) per person per year. On producing this card, the holder would be entitled to free basic health care at a hospital, clinic or village medical facility, including ante natal, maternity services and treatment for malaria. Although the cost of the NHIS card remains beyond the reach of the poorest, with take up currently at about 65% of the population, it has proved to be enormously successful in saving lives, particularly among children contracting malaria.

Slow wheels

Senior High School students pose with their bikes

For getting about locally, free to use, quiet, flexible, and convenient for exercise, a bicycle is perfect.  Costing around 130 to 160 Ghana Cedis, (equivalent to UK 40-55 pounds), a price too costly for many but within reach of anyone earning a regular wage, bicycles are plentiful and popular.

My purchase was made Ghanaian style, visiting the family home and compound of Martin, the local bicycle dealer, where, within the walled extended family compound, among the chickens and drying piles of maize, surrounded by huts I was invited to make my selection. All bicycles are a similar simple “sit up and beg” style with sturdy frame, covered chain guard, elaborate stand fitted over the rear wheel and parcel carrier-most frequently used for carrying a passenger. Martin checked my machine, added a bell and a locking device, and promised speedy repairs whenever needed.

Martin the bicycle seller-with my new bike

Not for the squeamish. Warning-parental guidance!

On Friday 26^th October 2012 the Muslim population of Ghana celebrated Eid al-Adha and enjoyed a day of religious observation and family festivities.

The state schools and main institutions remained open, but in the predominantly Muslim northern regions of Ghana, attendance would be low and applications for leave of absence high. For the VSO volunteers working in education in the northern areas, as none are Muslim, the day presented an opportunity for a working meeting; catch up, exchange of ideas and planning session.

Opposite our venue ( a volunteer’s house) there is a courtyard housing the accommodation and businesses of an extended Muslim family: a corner shop opening onto the street, a chop bar making and selling cooked food, a fabric store and tailor’s workshop, fish and meat smoking fires, small livestock rearing and living spaces.

We were invited to watch the sacrificial slaughter and butchering of a calf, commemorating the Biblical story of Abraham, who in following God’s command was about to sacrifice his son, when ordered to replace the child with a ram. Why did I go? The family continued their daily routines about the courtyard while preparations for the sacrifice were made. The chosen animal was lead into the yard, lifted and lay on its side and the limbs tied together. It was lifted into a shallow pit, positioned with a small deeper hole next to its neck, dug ready to collect the drained blood. The family and invited guests gathered quietly to watch. The event had a purposeful calm about it.   I was curious, but starting to feel distressed. A sharp cutlass was rested against the calf’s hide. Gently the calf was held in position, and an incision made in the calf’s neck.

I was overcome with a surge of emotion, being present at the ritualised death of a living creature, and left the courtyard in tears. I was helped across the road and back to the volunteer house and offered the standard British antidote: a cup of tea and a sweet biscuit.

I later reflected that every scrap of the calf’s flesh and carcass would be put to good use, and that during its life, the animal would have enjoyed a degree of nurture and roaming unknown to the factory farmed animals, the majority of agricultural livestock, in the UK. Through reading and watching certain television documentaries, I have a little knowledge of meat production and processing in the UK, but no direct experience, and I had given the subject minimal thought, certainly nothing to match what I had witnessed that day. However, I decided that if I was to remain true to my response to the slaughter of the calf, then I should no longer knowingly eat meat. 

Hot Wheels 5

Pit stop at a village

Hot Wheels 4

While the other volunteers picked up skills quickly and were able to practice, my progress was frustrated as I battled with the Yamaha 125 standard VSO moto.  After two days and three tumbles (no injuries bar bruises) I realised this machine was too big and too heavy for me. By good fortune, enquiries revealed that VSO had a smaller scooter in store, which was recovered, hastily serviced and by Friday I was much happier, sitting astride a Yamaha Economy Crypton, able to plant both feet on the ground, move the steering with ease and actually manoeuvre the bike back and forth when in neutral.

I had by then evolved my preferred practice routine, with a trainer “picked” as my pillion passenger, coaching and immediately available when I felt I had “had enough.” Our routes, along the main roads of Tamale, the rough dirt roads of the estates and out through the rural tracks leading to remote villages, were demanding of skills and concentration, exhausting, but exactly what was needed.

 

Hot Wheels 3

On the moto with trainer Abdul

Hot Wheels 2

After needing 7 days, rather than the 3 days suggested by VSO in the UK for initial “moto” (the Ghanaian term for a motorbike) training, I was understandably anxious as I set off on a Sunday with fellow volunteer Nicole to meet with two other volunteers for a week of intensive Ghana-style training.  Leaving Zebilla (population  3,000), travelling through Bolgatanga (population 70,000) to our destination,  Tamale, (population 350,000), some 100 miles by pot-holed roads, the contrasts between  large village, town and city felt stark, noisy and abrupt after the slow friendliness I have become accustomed to.

 As we inserted ourselves into our seats for the second and longer ride on the “tro tro” minibus, I thought, on hearing the sound of small hooves clattered over head, it was “The night Before Christmas”. More evidence of animals later, as the sagging, cracked ceiling above us revealed seepage, and droplets of brown fluid- goat urine and excrement-threatened passengers in the folding centre seats. ( Aisle space is an unaffordable luxury on a tro tro) One gallant man demanded the driver supply a cloth, and he dutifully dabbed and wiped for the three hour  journey to Tamale, while the goats on the roof skidded at every turn and jolt,  responding in nature’s way to their perilous positioning.

And so we arrived in the city of Tamale, found our lodgings, ate, slept, and then reported for a week’s Moto training on the Monday morning.

Goats on the roof

Hot Wheels

There are very good reasons why motorbikes feature as a main source of transport in northern Ghana:- the road network is minimal, with crumbling tarmac or red dirt surfaces; remote villages are linked by tracks too rough for regular cars and often too narrow for 4 wheel drive off- road vehicles; motorbikes are cheap to operate, easy to maintain and repair and respond well to the varying conditions of wet and dry seasons ; they quicker than cycling or walking.

A road in Zebilla