Accra, the capital city of Ghana is pronounced AccRA- ( as
in a HA), not ACCra- as in “sacre (bleue)”.
And so began my first
lesson of the week of In Country Training- or ICT- run by VSO for all new
volunteers. The week’s emphasis was on learning and preparation, not
sightseeing. I am one of six arrivals,
and coupled with four seasoned volunteers who hosted the week and ran some of
the workshops, the collective team ‘s impressive range of skills and
experiences in public, private and “third”/charity and voluntary sectors, plus
previous volunteering roles made for a bracing mix of optimism and idealism
blended with down to earth realism and plenty of good humour.
Staff from VSO Ghana and additional tutors ran other
sessions, on the country’s history and politics, cultures and religions and VSO
practices for working in development.
Although English is the official and widely used language,
at least 46 African languages and 76 dialects are spoken. Four tutors appeared for our language
sessions. Nicole and I, who are placed
in Zebilla, near Bolgatanga in the Upper East region, were coached in Kusaal to
engage in basic phrases of greeting and introduction. Up to now I have managed to remember “Fu be
be” which translates as “Good Morning”, responding “La fu be,” and “Mam yuri a
Janice.”
Fellow volunteer, Nicole and me with our language
tutor, Osman,
Down-town Accra was mostly seen through windows of taxis or
the much cheaper “tro-tro” minibuses. The
vehicle would speed, or crawl, depending on traffic volume, down a three line
carriageway carrying the main ring road over markets and settlements, then
suddenly turn off onto an unmade red dirt track. An impression of smart
offices, shops and occasional hotels
would be succeeded by small wooden trading booths, tended open fires
roasting ground nuts, sweet corn, meat and other tasty snacks, and road-way
traders, walking along the carriageway
whenever traffic halted, elegantly
balancing all manner of food, soft drinks, clothing and household items on
heads and across arms.
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