Low tech - High skill

In every city and town in Ghana, around the market places, alongside the fabric stalls, there are booths with tailors and seamstresses operating sewing machines to make a living creating and decorating garments.
The many thousands involved in this trade are a testimony to the desire to earn a living through gainful employment. The relatively slack level of business observed reflects the general lack of money to spend, with too much supply to meet the demand.
Zebilla is no different.
Here, my first visit to the seamstress has been a success.

 

If a garment is to be made, fabric is chosen and bought in advance, from a market stall or a street seller with piles of cloth balanced on the head.

The choice is varied, the colours and patterns bold. The particular design and print seems to choose you: one bolt of cloth will catch your eye saying “Pick me, pick me.” One yard- yes, measurements are in inches, feet and yards- will make a skirt, two for a short dress and four for a full length dress or pants and matching top.

From here, you go to the seamstress. While there are pictures of popular traditional African and modern designs, with a sketch, descriptions, gesturing and discussion, the final garment can be of your own creation and imagination. Technical skills are impressively high, limited only by a lack of accessories and the capacity of basic hand-powered sewing machines.

I was directed to Joyce, who runs a typical enterprise in the Zebilla market area, employing three young women. I wanted a formal dress, I explained, suitable for work. The style was agreed on. My measurements were taken and chalked onto the wall. I was dismissed and given a return date.

Material is marked with chalk according to a pattern in the cutter’s head, then pieces cut.

 

With minimal pinning, the garment is made up and adjusted as needed when the client comes for the fitting. The process is leisurely and friendly, with plenty of chatter and questions. I returned to Joyce to try on my dress, a few alterations were made, the dress was carefully pressed, the agreed price paid, and I proudly wore my first African dress.

 Joyce sews my dress