Enjoy.
My blog covers my year in Ghana as a VSO volunteer, from September 2012-13. I will be working as a Special Education Adviser in the Bawku West district in the far north of Ghana. The views expressed in this blog are the author's own and do not reflect those of VSO.
Tuesday, 17 September 2013
Lost in Translation
Always popular on the internet, here are my
offerings.
Outside Gideon's Art Shop- a sign board is prepared for the Gossip Walk In Health Care centre- Ghana Health Insurance cards accepted. |
Neither helmets nor number plates are universal in Zebilla. However.... |
Speed dating-the search for true love ever present- Binaba style |
Imported coffee- unsure which market it was originally intended for. |
And finally-Lydia- a happy picture of a truly lovely happy woman |
So- what is this volunteering all about?
The purpose of VSO style volunteering can
be summarized as “sharing skills, changing lives,” a previous VSO strap line.
“Reducing poverty” is the overarching goal.
Any volunteer goes on placement principally
to work, their job having defined goals and some expected outcomes. A volunteer
will live modestly, in the manner expected of a colleague within country, not
in hotel style with familiar home comforts, while being offered a safety net in
terms of health care, safety, security and the like.
My role has involved raising awareness of
disability rights, training a small number of education professionals and
changing the lives of some few children with disabilities and their families,
through developing their education or bringing them into education. I shared in the learning process. A very
small step has been taken in one part of Ghana on the long road to an ideal of
a fully inclusive society.
Experiences have given me an appreciation
of details of struggles in people’s daily lives and a respect for commitment. I
have made a Special Educational Needs colleague for life in Haruna, bonded with
dedicated teachers and been generously welcomed into families’ homes, to eat
with the African Spoon.
Haruna attempts to impose female subservience |
The man knows his place! |
Stirring the TZ- this takes enormous strength-note the metal supports for the feet |
But volunteering is multi-faceted; it is
not a single minded vocation with a future fast track to some heaven beyond.
Yes-there are sacrifices: missing family
and close friends (taunted by the promise of Skype, emails and phone calls for
easy communication, then cruelly denied when technology fails); materially losing
an income.
However, in this West African country of
brilliant colours and the friendliest of people, I have become richer in
knowledge, understanding and skills. And
I have had a whole lot of fun. I have met with amazingly talented people. The
capacity to give is inspiring.
Timing here goes by the sun, not by clocks.
Significant obstacles-the weather, power cuts, fuel shortages, strikes, malaria,
poor infrastructure- and differing priorities- greeting, offering a hand to any
“brother in need,” observation of bereavements- unite to prevent a tight
management of scheduling. These, plus an
absence of home country family obligations, household DIY demands, television, and
the like, give volunteers plenty of scope for recreation. Reading voraciously, enjoying and exchanging
downloaded films, TV series and music, travelling to meet up for
parties-preferably with a costumed theme, cards, Scrabble, talking, contemplating;
collectively they give a playful veneer to a serious undertaking. Precious new
friendships are made with a comradely bonding forged through shared struggles,
aspirations and appreciation
.
Ghanaian friends in the party spirit |
Volunteers in costume- Farewell Toga style party- using VSO issue bedsheets, the less tasteful the better. |
I leave Ghana with a sense of a job well
done, and thoughts of possible future volunteering.
Thursday, 12 September 2013
Saying “Goodbye.”
My farewell to Zebilla, and then Elmina and Accra, took place over a couple of weeks, as I hosted
or was guest at meals and “sittings.”
If dreams come true- and a part of the dream is to stumble
across some funding – I will return to Zebilla and, working with Haruna and
taking guidance from various people and organisations, open a special education
day unit in Zebilla, attached to a supporting primary school, to offer an
education to children who have learning disabilities and other complex needs.
But for now- shared hospitality, tasty food and cold drinks,
well chosen words of genuine thanks and a little Azonto dancing made the ending
to my placement cheerful, with tears shed privately among my closest work
colleagues and friends.
The admirable Director of Education for Bawku West district |
The local Ghana Education Service (GES) management invite me to a "sitting." My colleague Haruna is on the right. |
A`shared meal- TZ and stew -with Fati and her children-dancing followed the eating. |
The VSO Scrabble box is taken to Haruna's house- we played collaboratively |
Haruna and his wife Haleema- they have welcomed me into their family |
Gold!
Gold
Gold evokes images of shining, clean, pure metal, enhancing
precious stones, decorating and worn with pride, brilliant, light reflecting.
Jewellery, status symbol trophies and the like remain the premium use for gold,
but the non-reactive metal is also used in our electronic devices, such as
mobile phones, laptops, televisions, for dentistry, in medical procedures and
equipment and in the aerospace industry.
Gold mining, by contrast, is dusty, noisy, destructive and,
when unregulated, deadly dangerous.
Photo- Internet-Youga website |
A recent journey across the border, to look at a controlled
mine, operating within government and international legislations, left me with overwhelming
impressions of dust, of noise, of mountains of explosive-shattered rocks, a site
devoid of living things. The Youga mine, 90% owned by Endeavour (registered in
the Cayman Islands), is within Burkina Faso but near to the Ghana border and
Zebilla. Health and Safety practices are
strictly observed, (cyanide is used in the processing), and environmental
controls are in place. But taking 1 ton of gold ore rock to yield 5 grams of
gold, damage to the environment is inevitable. The staff are drawn from the
locality of south eastern Burkina Faso and northern eastern Ghana, with mainly Anglophone
management from Scotland, Ireland, England, Australia and Canada; a medley of languages and accents perform. The rock
crushing plant operates 24/7, 365 days a year, while the quarrying and load
moving relies on heavy duty machinery and vehicles- with tyres bigger than a 6
foot male. Costs of $700 to produce 1 ounce of gold- trading at $1200- give a
decent profit margin. (Apologies for shifts in scales of measurement.)
Gold ore is quarried-photo-Youga website |
Ore is moved to crushing machines and stored as flattened mountains. Photo-internet-Youga web site |
Locally, and across Ghana, the country known as Gold Coast
in colonial times, there are official, industrial scale mines, but also many
local, small scale “Galamsey” operations. The latter are notorious for wrecking
the environment, and as mercury is used by miners to extract gold from crushed
ore, the potential for poisoning is ever present. Production costs may be
minimized by using trafficked child labour, and typical, well documented
problems of child and female abuse, violence and accidents persist.
Photos- internet |
As reported in Ghana news media recently, (Ghana Chronicle
June 2013) the two sectors can overlap with antagonism, as fundamental
questions of who owns and can profit from gold are played out. ChinaGold,
through subsidiaries, has invested over $50million in installing a processing
plant at mining sites in a neighbouring district, under the agreement of
national and local administrations, but in conflict with small scale Galamsey
mine owners. In protest, with actions causing destruction and damage estimated
at several million dollars and the theft of explosives and five drilling machines,
local miners and small company owners demonstrated their opposition to the
proposed industrial scale mine. Counter charges from ChinaGold saying that
generous compensation had already been paid out indicate the complexity of
stories surrounding this development and an uncertainty of the truth.
The wealthy international companies, with spending power to
meet local needs, and with aid to schools and public services, are in the
stronger position to eventually succeed in their quest for mining rights and
the proceeds.
Photo- Anglo-Gold Ashanti website |
The Ghana government holds a 10% stake in 6 of the 10 major
mines owned internationally within Ghana. With Ghana in the top 20 gold
producing countries globally and second to South Africa within Africa, this
precious metal yields valuable income, but as with the forthcoming promise of
exploitable oil and gas reserves, how benefits accrue to the general population
remains a political discussion to be long argued over.
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